It’s a Friday in April 2012 and Hampshire-born singer-songwriter Frank Turner is bringing his triumphant Wembley Arena concert to a close. A mammoth 24 song set, no less. Playing in front of 12,000 loyal fans is no small feat, especially when some of those present had travelled from across the globe to be there.

And when he belted out a raucous cover of Bob Dylan’s 1964 classic ‘The Times They Are A-Changin’ alongside politically-driven songwriter Billy Bragg, the song’s sentiment would prove particularly pertinent for London Brewing Co’s Rich White.

Not only had he travelled all the way from New York State to be there. But he was enjoying the gig with a would-be stranger that would go on to be his wife.

“I had just got my passport sorted because I sure as heck wasn’t going to be one of those Americans that never travelled,” says White, a native of Syracuse. “I was a big fan of Frank Turner and really wanted to go to that show! So I went onto his online message board and offered to buy the drinks that night if anyone would show me around London. Thankfully somebody took me up on that.”

That person was Laura. But such was her nature, and her mutual love of good beer, that she offered to buy the beers and also show Rich all that was worth seeing in London.

He was the guest, after all…

“That weekend started with the gig and turned into a few days of getting trollied in The Euston Tap, going for a curry, enjoying a West End show and drinking ourselves silly in BrewDog Camden. Oh, and getting matching tattoos, too,” he recalls fondly.

That tattoo fittingly combines the date the couple met up and the UK pint symbol. At this point, it’s probably not surprising to hear that Laura and Rich ended up getting married at a Frank Turner gig in the USA several years later. But that’s a story for another day.

Now, in 2018, Rich White is the proud head brewer at London Brewing Co. A 6.6bbl brewery that operates out of North Finchley’s impressive pub, The Bohemia.

And, alongside a team that includes Senan Sexton and Dan Fox, the pub’s landlords who are also directors of London Brewing Co, and new brewing recruit George Boustred, the outfit are enthused about the road ahead.

Highgate heritage

The London Brewing Co story started at popular Highgate pub The Bull back in 2011. Before White and Sexton, the latter’s business partner Dan Fox was making great strides with a modest 2.5bbl brewing operation that operated out of the London hostelry.

“From the off, the beers demonstrated an American influence,” explains Sexton. “And the food being served mirrored those influences as well. I wasn’t involved at the time, but I knew I wanted to be!”

Sexton (above right) has a wealth of experience managing pub companies in London. A decade spent looking after capital hotspots such as The Phoenix in Cavendish Square, The Albany in Great Portland Street and The Marquis Cornwallis in Russell Square has given him a keen eye for a good business.

And, despite his love for good beer, White initially followed his existing career path working for a credit union upon moving to London. That soon changed, however, when he took up a pub job to help save some cash before Christmas.

That role was at The Pelt Trader near Cannon Street in London. For those familiar with it, the pub offers a concise but excellent selection of beers from breweries such as The Kernel and Burning Sky in an area generally devoid of good beer. But White’s time there was short-lived.

“One day the manager, Mark Hazell, came in and said: ‘I know I’m going to regret this as you’re my most competent employee. But there’s a place called The Bull in Highgate looking for a brewer and I think you’d be a good fit.’ Mark later told me that once people found out he was employing an American that likes good beer and knows how to brew, that they wouldn’t be around for long. So, I appreciate him recognising my potential and helping me on that road.”

Respected brewers such as Daniel Vane had worked at London Brewing Co before leaving to join Weird Beard in West London and how runs Hale Brewing at Five Miles London. When White interviewed for the role, Jenna Dunseath, now of Real Ale Ltd, was still with the business.

“She asked which part of the US I was from, so I loosely told her the New York State area. ‘I get that, but where?’ she replied. ‘Ummm, Syracuse,’ I said.

‘No way!’ she exclaimed.

“We realised that her parents had taught at Syracuse University and she was born and had lived three blocks from my house. Small world!” he recalls.

Diverse inspiration

White was successful in his interview. He swiftly became acquainted with the brewery’s Oban Ales setup and then began refining the range while also making his mark with his own releases there, drawing upon diverse inspiration from the type of beers he enjoyed in younger days.

“I lived near Brewery Ommegang so was fortunate to get a lot of good beer from them,” he says. ”Then you also had the excellent beers coming out of Empire Brewing Company thanks to Steve Schmitt  – who went on to hold the head brewer role at London’s Meantime Brewing Company.”

White also recalls the beers he enjoyed at Clark’s Ale House in Syracuse; a love letter to the classic English pub.

“That place was a big influence on me. There was one hand pump and 20 keg lines. It was the first place I had Fuller’s ESB, which was fantastic. But the same couldn’t be said for the poor people that worked there,” he remembers. “The owner hung up a big sign that said ‘No Tipping’ to keep it in-line with the UK. You also had no music, either. But that said, great roast beef sandwiches! It was unique over there. but unfortunately it closed for refurbishment and they spent too long doing it. The scene changed in that time and people’s tastes had moved on.”

Back in the UK, the London Brewing Co operation worked well from The Bull, but opportunity knocked.

In 2014, drinkers and locals in North Finchley’s much-loved The Bohemia were taken aback when the pub looked set to close less than a year after opening. But thankfully for them, Sexton and business partner Fox took on the venue through the London Brewing Co and became its new landlords in the process.

Reopening in June 2014, Sexton and the team put the community at the heart of The Bohemia. It would not only enable London Brewing Co to install a larger brewhouse, and make a foray into keg, but also to host a diverse range of events that would ensure the pub would not exist in a craft beer bubble.

“I’d like to say I’m happy with how things have gone, but that’s not in my nature,” laughs Sexton. “It’s a big space and the opportunities are massive. It’s a case of fine-tuning everything to get things exactly how you want.

“I have high expectations and I want to encourage people out of their living rooms. I want them to turn off EastEnders and to come down here and enjoy The Bohemia for the community hub it is. The scope is huge. Whether it’s for beer events, live music, salsa, comedy, yoga, art fairs, the lot!

“It’s testament to the beers Rich is making that we have people come in, try them for the first time and when they come back, they’ll order London Brewing Co beers again. And these are not so-called craft beer drinkers – they just know good beer when they see it. I’m really proud of that.”

Changing lanes

While London Brewing Co has evolved at its new home in North Finchley, they have changed in a different way at The Bull.

“The offering at The Bull began leaning more towards the gastropub side of things and it worked well. But we found ourselves sending beer there and vice versa, which didn’t make sense. And in 2016, we got an offer on the pub,” says Sexton.

The Grade II listed, 5,000 sqft brewpub dates back to 1730 as a public house. So, it was no surprise that the site had its admirers who came in the form of Gorgeous Pubs, led by former Geronino Inns employee Rob Laub. Its brewing operation, Gorgeous Brewing, is run by London Brewing Co alumni Reuben Moore.

“We are happy with the work we did there, but it made sense to move on and concentrate on The Bohemia, which is far more aligned with the brewpub model we were interested in,” explains Sexton.

As the team approaches The Bohemia’s fourth anniversary since taking it over, they’re ready to push on.

“This kit has served us well, but it’s always good to look at the next move and how you can expand,” says White. “But it’s also important to ensure that what you make, you can sell and not have it left sitting around. That’s where the pub really helps. It allows us to see first-hand what is proving popular. Brewing specials is also interesting, but there needs to be a market for them, too.”

He adds: “When I brew I always aim to adopt the mentality of a truly professional brewer. I want make recipes that stick so that people want to drink them time and time again. Don’t get me wrong, I’m perfectly happy to brew really bizarre stuff that can garner a positive critical reception, but I am more interested in achieving drinkability, repeatability and consistency.”

White’s day-to-day responsibilities have changed immeasurably following the appointment of George Boustred (top left) as his assistant. Boustred, who previously worked at Haresfoot in Buckinghamshire, is also local to the North Finchley area.

“I grew up around the corner and used to come here and The Bull before I knew I wanted to be a brewer,” he explains. “There was nothing like it and I always enjoyed how diverse the range of beers were. I’ve already learnt so much in the six short weeks I’ve been here.”

White is similarly enthused: “George has picked things up incredibly quickly. He’s learning fast and also means I can now do things like take a holiday! He will make a big difference for us,” he says.

And that’s something Sexton wants to do. Having London Brewing Co and The Bohemia helps make a difference, both locally and further afield. An upcoming rebrand will surely help, too.

“Craft beer, great beer, needs to exist outside a bubble. It should be inclusive. Yes, that’s changing but there is still a long way to go,” he says. “We need to work together, attract more people and ensure nobody is excluded.”