Partizan Brewing, founded by Andy Smith, is one of the original members of the famous beer scene in Bermondsey, London. And under the leadership of head brewer Dennis Ratliff and his assistant Tom Mahoney, they’re driving the brewery through the next stage of its evolution. 

London’s brewing scene is an enthralling tapestry. It’s a hotbed of talent as diverse as the capital itself. The city boasts a rich, layered history but as importantly, a contemporary brewing sector underpinned by innovation and expression.

Bermondsey in South-East London is arguably the epicentre of this city’s modern, so-called, craft industry. A cross-section of breweries, along with their burgeoning taproom offerings, have helped transcend this corner of the beer scene beyond craft beer enthusiasts, aficionados and fans, and into the world of the casual drinker. 

Like a band getting too popular, some voices will despair at the increased popularity of their favourite haunts. Though whether these are the same as those that argue modern beer needs to move beyond the “craft beer bubble” is probably a conversation for another day…

Partizan Brewing has been one such part of Bermondsey’s beer scene since 2012. The brewery’s journey began when founder and owner Andy Smith left a career in fine dining to follow his pursuits in one of life’s other great pleasures. 

As avid home-brewer, he sought to make fresh exciting beer that was difficult to find here in the UK. A move from his home town of Leeds to London soon presented the opportunity to work with Andy Moffat at Redemption Brewing in Tottenham. 

Here he studied and learned to ply his trade as a professional brewer whilst making many friends and contacts in the fast growing UK beer scene. 

Come 2012, one of these friends, Evin O’Riordain of The Kernel Brewery kindly offered to pass on their original brew kit as the Kernel embarked upon expansion, and it wasn’t long before the brewery was born. Smith secured some premises secured just down the railway line, and Kernel and Partizan were established as neighbours. 

“We at Partizan relish diversity,” says Smith. “We delight in the cultural richness of our surroundings here in London, with its myriad ethnicities, languages and traditions. A city, fuelled by passionate, creative and enterprising people, drawing on a wealth of strands of history and identity, filled with excitement to create anew.”

He adds: “In so many ways this involved a look to the past, to a time when people invested themselves fully in hand driven pursuits, producing with pride and precision the consumables that not only nourished physically, but excited the taste buds. 

“The recent food and drink revolution has led to a wonderfully diverse international community of producers who are fiercely dedicated to making things that can offer the same to the modern consumer.”

In 2020 one such producer is Dennis Ratliff, the head brewer of Partizan. Along with his assistant Tom Mahoney, the brewing trio, completed by founder Smith, are ensuring the Raymouth Road operation continues to evolve and transform like London itself. 

“There is no better time, and no better place, to be a brewer than London at the point we’re at now,” enthuses Ratliff. “I truly believe that.”

Ratliff has been involved in beer for nearly 20 years. Starting out in 2001, he got a job working at Pennsylvania Brewing Company on Pittsburgh’s North Side. Roles washing kegs and progressing through apprenticeship programmes gave him invaluable experience in the trade before his wife’s work in the chemicals industry took them to Chicago and for Ratliff, a position at Emmett’s Brewing.

Ratliff enjoyed a stint there before relocation was required once more and this time, London was the destination.

“We were both happy to have the opportunity to move here and naturally, I immediately started researching the beer scene,” he recalls.

The year was 2015 and in the height of summer. Visits to the Great British Beer Festival and the various events organised as part of London Beer Week gave Ratliff a varied insight into the wonders London had to offer for a fan of the aforementioned beverage.

“I had been in the world of beer for nearly 20 years and I had never taken a note in my life!” he laughs. “But here I was, writing down as much as I could to help me process everything. It was overwhelming, but in a good way.”

At that point he wasn’t looking for a job but instead, he was an American brewer fresh to London and just wanted to get the lay of the land.

“Any brewery’s beers I enjoyed I’d go on to email and ask for a chat, and that’s how I ended up at Brew By Numbers,” he says.

Ratliff had a positive time working at the Bermondsey business and still counts them as friends. He feels that he brought some of his organisational skills to the brewery, something that now dovetails with fellow Partizan brewer Mahoney’s way of working. 

“I was in the army so it comes naturally to me. It’s a good thing, but maybe it can be a bad thing too,” he smiles. “Tom will attest to that as well. He’s a very deliberate thinker and sees the big picture whereas I sort of pick a direction and I totally charge towards it.”

Ratliff has been head brewer at Partizan since July of last year. Mahoney would go on to join the team a month later. 

The latter’s journey in the world of brewing started in 2016 as an apprentice at Dorking Brewery but the seeds was sown long before. A student of American Studies at the University of Texas, Mahoney’s palate would experience the joys of fresh Sierra Nevada Pale Ale alongside other world-class brews. 

Upon returning to the UK to complete his studies, the culinary fan looked lovingly towards the world of cheffing before taking a position at a pensions company.

“I wasn’t totally sold on the idea of pursuing the cheffing route so took the office option. It was fine, but when I saw the Dorking Brewery position I knew I had to take a punt,” he recalls. 

Mahoney adds: “There is a definite crossover between being a chef and being a brewer and that very much appealed to me. You’re working with fantastic ingredients and the ability to create something is incredibly attractive.” 

Mahoney went on to become senior brewer at London’s excellent Five Points Brewing Company before joining Partizan, where he and Ratliff form the main brewing team. Founder Smith still plays an integral role in new recipes.

“Everyone gets a say when it comes to new beers,” explains Ratliff. “Andy is involved, we’re involved, the taproom is involved and sales are involved. Let’s not forget, sales drive brewing.”

He adds: “Working with a small team is fantastic because you get to have most impact, no matter what your position is. You can take ownership of things and everybody feels like they’re part of everything. Why? Because they really are.”

The brewery mades its foray into canning its beers in the second half of 2019. Popular new releases such as New England Pale and New England Saison have resonated with drinkers, complementing bottled releases that include Lemon and Thyme Saison, beers that helped establish Partizan in the London brewing landscape. 

And its beer like this that continue to prove a hit with punters that frequent Bermondsey’s popular ‘Beer Mile’, something that continues to enamour Ratliff. 

“You know, I think we’re so lucky to have this. You know, as much as people don’t seem to like the beer mile term, I think it’s fantastic. I love having this opportunity to try so many different beers from so many different breweries all in one go,” he says.

Part of its appeal, to Ratliff, remains the sense of community he feels part of. 

“We’re always over at Brew By Numbers borrowing stuff or they’re here doing the same,” he says. It’s that or we’re hanging out with the team at Affinity Brew Co and elsewhere. It’s great and we’re very, very fortunate.”

Along with this idea of community, Ratliff is confident in the room for growth that exists in the craft beer sector. 

He explains: “There are challenges, of course, but look to the US and see how it keeps growing. There’s no reason why we can’t continue to do that here. 

“But to achieve that, you certainly don’t do it by chasing trends. That approach will only sustain you for a little while. I believe you need to stay true to who you are and do the best you can.”

Such an approach at Partizan has resulted in the brewery recently investing in a new FV to help increase capacity by around 15%, a steady increase in growth that Ratliff is proud of. 

“There’s no harm in going steady, he says. “I know people talk about a bubble, and they talk about a ceiling but as I said there’s still room for growth if we continue to make good beer and get it into people’s hands.”

Founder Smith adds: “To truly move forward and progress, it is important to be mindful of the past; this has always formed part of the Partizan ethos. We want to continue to learn from our predecessors and give life and longevity to the beer they made. 

“Learning is so important for development, and we believe that this comes not only through education, but also in seeing things from another angle or through a different prism of thought. This is why we love to work with new people, to share, to guide and to be guided into new avenues of exploration. 

“Our association with other unique and spirited producers, artists and collaborators of all kinds has always been fruitful and we hope to continue to grow and develop relationships within the industry and beyond, refining our process and continue to brew and share beer we love.”