We need to keep craft beer accessible | Reece Hugill, Donzoko Brewing Company

2019 has been a year of growth and transition for Donzoko Brewing Company and its founder, Reece Hugill. As a one-man band, Hugill has experienced first-hand the growing appetite for modern, independently-made, beer. But in doing so, he’s also acutely aware of the need to keep craft beer inclusive, and accessible to all.

“I know I’ll never be able to compete on price when it comes to my beer, but I do know I can guarantee a passion, a story and a genuine love for the product,” says Donzoko Brewing Company founder Reece Hugill.

Hartlepool-based Hugill, who is a panellist at next month’s Brewers Congress in London, started brewing in his parents’ garden back in 2014. A chemistry graduate from Newcastle University and LMU Munich, he has gone on to make his mark with Donzoko Brewing Company and its flagship beer, Northern Helles.

Last year the outfit doubled capacity twice, dialled in its Helles recipe and launched 10 other beers. And in 2020, he plans to take on more staff, invest in his own brewhouse and most importantly, make better beer than before.

He explains: “When it comes to beer, I can’t tell you what that pint of Birra Moretti stands for. But if you’re drinking a pint of my Helles, then there’s a very strong chance that I’ve been there to deliver it myself, and engaged with the bar staff and customers.

“And if my beer is 30p more expensive than the macro lager, it’s my responsibility to make that beer demonstratively better, and that of the wider industry to explain, in a non-patronising way, as to why the product costs more than the beer they are used to drinking’’

Hugill continues to enjoy success with Northern Helles. The 4.2% beer is his version of a Bavarian Style unfiltered lager. Sweet malt, subtle floral hops and a crisp refreshing finish.

“Lager is always the most competitive line on the bar. You have to give people a reason to stock your beer, and the consumer a reason to drink it,” he says. ‘’ Macro tactics can be ruthless, but they can’t offer a beer as good as mine. You’ve got to know your strengths and values’’

Hugill adds: “It’s important for me to have my beer as accessible, and not something that’s too prohibitive, in terms of price or beer knowledge.

“To see a group of regular macro lager drinkers go into a Byker pub, buy my beer and to enjoy it all afternoon is incredibly rewarding. For me to ensure that happens, you need to price it accordingly and offer people beer in a way that doesn’t alienate them.

“Lager should have always been a big part of the craft conversation, and not something people push out in a couple of weeks to serve at their taproom or tied houses because they feel like they need yellow fizz. Those beers do modern independent lager breweries a disservice as they’re not really any better than the macro lagers available elsewhere.”

But thanks to breweries such as Lost and Grounded, Braybrooke and Donzoko, among others, Hugill feels as that dynamic is changing.

“Lager isn’t an off the shelf generic product. its a 3D living object. It is a greater part of the conversation than ever before and if we can convert drinkers from the macro lagers to beers such as Northern Helles or Keller Pils then that is a great thing. But we need to put the work in, inform the drinker, and give them that reason to make that switch.” 

Reece Hugill is taking part in next month’s Brewers Congress in London on November 28th. For full information and tickets, click here.

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